Day 23 Najera to Estella

Day 23. Najera to Estella. 77.95 kms cycled. 5.16 hours cycling. 55.98 km/h max speed. 14.76 km/h average speed. Weather – sunny, with a north east head wind in the afternoon.

Well, today was day of numbers. How many pilgrims could I count who were walking to Santiago; how many could I count who were cycling; how many stopped me to tell me I was going the wrong way; how many hills could there possibly be in one day’s cycling; how many people would I have to ask to be able to find my way out of Logrono and finally how many flat tyres am I going to have?
I gave up counting at 200 the number of pilgrims walking and at about 120 the number cycling. For the day I would estimate I saw 500 to 600 altogether, and all with a determined I will make it or else look on their face.
I wonder if that is how I looked to them? I somehow think not. More to the point at least 10 groups urgently waved me down and basically wanted to know if I was lost or crazy. Santiago was the other way, where the hell do you think you are going, was the basic theme of what they were asking.
When I told them that I was quite alright and was heading to Pamplona, they all smiled and wished me all the best for my travels. A nicer group of people you could ever meet.
Some I saw were definitely doing it tough. One lady obviously had bad foot blisters and was trying to battle on with no shoes … I somehow think her pilgrimage was destined to finish early. Another man was wearing no shirt and was as badly sunburnt as I have seen anyone … I somehow think his next couple of days are going to be very painful (yes it was a beautiful sunny day). Others were obviously very unfit for such a demanding trek … I am sure they are not going to complete the 800 kilometres needed to reach their goal.
One German couple I shared a shelter with for about 10 minutes said they took 2 weeks off work every year to complete another section of the trail. They estimated they still had a few years of walking to go.
As it turned out the numbers game became too difficult to keep up, but it did keep me occupied for quite some time in the morning. The afternoon was basically spent dealing with countless hills and a persistent north east wind that was right in my face.
At this time of the year there are meant to be consistent westerly winds, where the hell are they!!!
Within sight of Estella, my destination for the day, I suffered my 5th flat for the trip which was annoying, but at least it enabled me to work out why they have been happening so frequently.
Before leaving Australia I put puncture liners inside the tyres, but it turns out they have sharp edges and over time have been cutting into the tubes. This explains why the tubes were being cut, not punctured.
Anyway I threw the back one away and will do the same when the front punctures again.
Fortunately I chanced upon a proper bicycle shop in Longrono and was able to purchase 4 of the right size tubes, so I was right for spares when it happened.
That reminds me, Logrono was definitely the low spot of the day. I initially thought about bypassing it, but it was going to add an extra 20 or so km onto my trip so decided to take the easy way out. Bad mistake.
It is a big, confusing town with freeways everywhere and a nightmare to negotiate on a bicycle. Anyhow, hopelessly lost I asked 10 different people for directions to the road to Pamplona and all basically pointed me in different directions. Boy I hate big cities!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In the end I found myself on a major freeway where bicycles are not permitted, but I just hoped the police didn’t come along and stayed on it for about 10 km until I could find an exit and the road I was meant to be on.
Enough of my ramblings for today, there weren’t many picture opportunities along the way, so just one picture for the blog today.

caption: About the only sight that really cuaght my attention. I will try to get some pics of some pilgrims tomorrow.

Day 22 Sightseeing in Najera

Not really much to report today. With the day off from cycling my initial goals were to have a big sleep in, track down the tourist office and, most importantly, find a shop that sells bicycle tubes.

  I am pleased to report all were successfully achieved, although the tubes aren’t exactly the right size but in an emergency should keep me rolling.

  Hopefully in Pamplona I will be able to track down exactly what I am after, but the 9 Euros spent today on the two tubes was excellent insurance indeed nonetheless.

  What I have come to discover is that Najera is a major stopover point on the famous religious pilgrim route to Santiago in western Spain.

  The town is absolutely full of pilgrims who are walking – yes walking – to Santiago.

  They come in all shapes, sizes, ages and nationalities, but all have the one common goal, which is inspiring in itself. In a way I can almost relate to their determination to achieve their goal, my goal to cycle across Europe is vastly different and not religiously based, but I guess I am just as determined as they are to succeed!!

  There are a number of groups camped in the same private camp ground where I am staying, but the vast majority stay in a large dormitory-style building in town.

  I am told by a German couple here in the camp ground that the dormitory accommodation is basic in the extreme (5 Euros per night) and that you have to be able to put up with a chorus of snoring to be able stay. But I guess for those involved it is all part of the deal.

  Anyway, while I am far from a religious pilgrim I sort of got in on the act at lunchtime. The German couple told me about a fantastic restaurant they went to the previous night that had a special price of 8.5 Euros for a three-course meal for pilgrims.

  Not one to go past a good meal and a bargain one at that, I tracked down the restaurant and certainly enjoyed a great meal along with the hordes of pilgrims there.

  So don’t tell anyone, but I have unofficially become a pilgrim – at meal time at least!!   And from what I can tell my route to France follows the pilgrim route (although I am going in the opposite direction), so from here on in I will be on the lookout for pilgrim specials.

  With the weather on the improve, I am looking forward to a few days of sunny cycling with Pamplona and then the Pyrenees and ultimately France very definitely in my sights.

  Although I have absolutely loved Portugal and Spain, I must say I as very much looking forward to spending 5 or so weeks cycling across France.

  At least there they know how to bake great bread, something I just haven’t found so far on the trip.

 Anyway, time for an afternoon nap, until next time adios. 

caption: Najera

Day 21 Vizcainos to Najera

Day 21. Vizcainos to Najera. 83.40 kms cycled. 5.28 hours cycling. 42.16 km/h max speed. 15.20 km/h average speed. Weather - sunny but extremely cold.


Well, Spain really turned it on for me today. After an extremely cold start – early overnight rain had actually frozen the tent solid when I woke up – I hit the road for one of the most amazing day’s cycling I have ever enjoyed.
The first 20 or so kilometres were extremely tough and saw me continue the previous day’s climb interupted by a flat tyre up to about 1200 metres.
Snow covered peaks were everywhere and it felt like it!! But after finally peaking, the road started going down and basically continued to do so for the next 50 kilometres.
Often as I’m climbing yet another impossibly long and steep road I joke with myself that the next stretch of road to the nearest town or landmark must be “all downhill” – in my dreams!
Usually the reality is much less pleasing, but today I got my wish. After that “killer” first 20 km, I hardly saw a hill. Nearly the whole trip was a descent, aside from the odd flat stretch and the even rarer “bump in the road”.
But it wasn’t the armchair ride that had me in raptures, it was the amazing scenery. On many occasions I found myself going as slowly as I could so that I could take it all in.
There were huge gorges, the fast running rivers Urria and Najerilla that had carved out amazing passages through the countryside, dozens of eagles soaring overhead, snow covered peaks everywhere and basically another amazing sight at every turn of the road.
In fact, I don't think I have ever seen so many waterfalls, fast-flowing rivers, massive dams and amazing natural cliff formations.
The previous day I had worried that the Sierra de la Demanda National Park would be a killer ride with peaks as high as 2271 metres, but the reality was much, much more enjoyable.
The road through the natural wilderness followed the valleys and is truly a sight that anyone who visits Spain should make an effort to see. Without doubt the area was the highlight of my trip so far and that is a big statement because I saw some amazing sights in Portugal.
I couldn't but help wonder where everyone was. For hours on end just a handful of cars passed, the various picnic grounds were deserted as were the picturesque little villages. For quite a while I felt I had this incredible natural wilderness all to myself!!

But then I couldn't have asked for any more, it will certainly be a day that stays in my memory for a long, long time.
Due to the dream downhill ride, I ended up travelling much further for the day – 83 kilometres – than I had expected, so have decided to have a rest day tomorrow in Najera before making my way to Pamplona and then on to the Pyrenees and France.
I also need to urgently find a cycle shop so I can purchase some more tubes, as I no longer have any spares, so here’s to hoping that there is one in Najera.

captions: Pictures just don't seem to do the area's beauty justice.

Day 20 Lerma to Vizcainos

Day 20. Lerma to Vizcainos. 56.09 kms cycled. 3.34 hours cycling. 41.69 km/h max speed. 15.70 km/h average speed. Weather – overcast and cool with one thunderstorm with hail.

After a bit of a sleep in at the hostel and generally a slow start to the day in Lerma, I finally hit the road at about 11am.

  In particular I was keeping a track of the days of the week, and knew only too well that it was Saturday. In other words stock the panniers up with food because nothing, I mean nothing, is open in Spain on a Sunday.

  After getting the days of the week confused the previous week and almost running out of food, I hit the Lerma fruiterer and Supermacado (convenience store) with zest and left the town brimming with food.

  Basically it was a case of stuff how much it weighs, I am just about to ride into the Sierra de la Demanda mountain range (there is something very worrying about that name!!!!) and I need sustenance.

  From Lerma the road was straight and flat to Covarrubias, but boy did the terrain change after that.

  The scenery returned to the beautiful sights that I had come to expect over the past few weeks, after a few days of wheat country. The whole area was filled with rolling hills, woodland, fast-flowing streams and a valley with mountains rising up on all sides.

  Unfortunately just as I was arriving into Covarrubias I suffered my third flat tyre for the trip and while fixing it a violent thunderstorm along with hail swept through.

  Fortunately I was under cover, but for a while I thought my day’s riding may have come to a premature end.

  But as quickly as the storm swept in it cleared up and with the tube changed off I went again.

  The next 30 kilometres was absolutely beautiful country, with the scenery near and far breathtaking. In the distance – where I am heading – the mountains in the Sierra de la Demanda mountain range are covered in snow, with one of my main thoughts whether the road I am taking will take me above the snow line … I certainly hope not!!!!!

  Anyway, the day’s cycling came to an abrupt halt after 56 kilometres with yet another flat tyre. I soon found a good wild camp site and set about setting up camp and once again changing the tube.

  As soon as possible I will need to buy some new tubes, as the ones I have I believe are faulty. From what I can see they are splitting, rather than being punctured from outside.

  All I know is that I am fast getting sick of changing flat tyres.

  Tomorrow promises to be an interesting day as I head up into those snow covered mountains, I’m just glad I bought along plenty of cold weather gear.

 captions. Top 2 pics: The beautiful town of Covarrubias. Pic 3: The scenery was fantastic. Pic 4: There are many fascinating old ruins along the way, I would love to know their history.

Day 19 Duenas to Lerma

Day 19 Duenas to Lerma. 90.70 kms cycled. 5.11 hours cycling. 50.58 km/h max speed. 17.46 km/h average speed. Weather – fine, sunny and cold in the morning with a westerly wind in the afternoon.

What a difference a day can make. After what was basically a downer of a day for me the previous day, it was a totally different story today.
After a great meal the previous night, a good sleep and waking to sunshine for the first time in about 10 days, I instantly felt my spirits rise.
So much so, that I knew that it was going to be a good day – and it was. With the terrain changing over the course of the day from flat open acreage planted with wheat to valleys and gorges, the kilometres just seemed to fly by.
And with a solid westerly at my back for the final 40kms, I was pretty pleased with the 90kms I clocked up for the day.
I constantly find myself immersed in the history of the country that I am travelling through and find it amazing that every town – no matter how big or small – has a HUGE church as its central point.
Some towns I have cycled through so far would struggle to have 30 or 40 houses, but always boast a huge church that would have been built in the middle ages – some in better repair than others.
On two occasions today I came across shepherds herding their sheep along the road. And on both occasions I stopped to have a chat with them. No-one understood what was being said, but it was fun talking with them anyway.
The second shepherd was carrying a small radio that he used to listen to while watching over his sheep. I pointed it out and it was clear that it wasn’t working properly.
So next thing I knew we were both sitting by the side of the road surrounded by sheep, trying to work out why his radio wasn’t working. I think it was flat batteries, but he seemed appreciative of my efforts anyway.
That encounter gave me an extra boost, and a ‘how good is this feeling’. As I said earlier, what a difference a day can make!!!!!
Anyway, after criss-crossing the countryside to avoid a series of major highways, I finally got onto the road heading west that I will be on for a couple of days.
And right on cue, the wind picked up from the west and I had a great armchair ride for the final 40 kilometres into Lerma, an extremely historic and important town for the Spanish.
It is one of the few towns that I have come across that has literature for tourists in English, so I will read up tonight and do a bit of sightseeing in the morning before hitting the road again.

captions. Pic 1: Another town with a huge church as its central point. Pic 2: Wide open plains. Pic 3: The first shepherd. Pic 4: The second shepherd that I tried to help fix his radio. Pics 5&6 Lerma

Day 18 Medina to Duenas

Day 18 Medina to Duenas. 51.95kms cycled. 3.34 hours cycling. 42.16 km/h max speed. 14.51 km/h average speed. Weather – cold, wet and windy throughout.

I’m told it’s not normal for this time of year, but by gee am I getting sick of the freezing, wet and windy weather this part of Spain is experiencing at the moment.

 Basically it makes touring on a bicycle incredibly more difficult than it already is!

 After it rained again all night I knew I was in for a tough day, and believe me I was right.

  From the time I set out from Medina – after initially contemplating having the day off – I am the first to admit that I struggled.

  Not only was it constantly raining and bitterly cold, but I was riding straight into a persistent headwind. Not, I must admit, as strong as the headwinds I encountered in Portugal, but strong enough to make every turn of the pedal an effort.

  The result was a painful countdown of the kilometres, with my goal of making Cevico de la Torre – a 70km trip for the day – looking more and more of a pipedream the longer the day went on.

  Into the bargain I copped my second flat tyre in 3 days just out of Ampudia, which didn’t help improve my outlook on things.

  In the end I called it quits in Duenas, a historic town that is basically too cold and wet to explore.

  Unfortunately the smaller towns in Spain don’t have camping grounds, so I enquired at the Tourisimo office for directions to a suitable hostel.

  The result was the best tghing that happened all day, with my accommodation for the night a near brand new B&B just out of town for just 25 Euros complete with pay TV – no broadband unfortunately – which enabled me to watch the Madrid Tennis Open on live TV.

  So there you have it, what was a pretty ordinary day that finished on a bright note, and with some hope that the weather may start to improve tomorrow.

After repairing the flat tyre in Ampudia, I was in desperate need of a good meal, so went into the only restaurant in town.

  But wouldn’t you know it, it was siesta closing time and I was too late, it seemed. My pleadings for some sort of food must have hit a chord with the lady however, as she reluctantly agreed to get some soup.

  Great, I thought, but you should have seen what turned up. It must have been a local specialty, because it was basically a bowl full of hot, ground up animal fat. And into the bargain it tasted disgusting.

  After forcing myself to eat about half, I gave up and just ate the dry bread that came with it. If I didn’t know better I would say I was set up, but anyway the whole exercise cost 8 Euros, which was just as bad as the so-called soup.

caption. The only picture I took all day - repairing a flat tyre. It was too wet for any other pics.

Day 17 Castronuevo to Medina

Day 17. Castronuevo to Medina. 54.19kms cycled. 3.20 hours cycling. 37.30km/h max speed. 16.20 average speed. Weather – cold and wet.


After such a big day yesterday I didn’t need any rocking to sleep, but was still woken by torrential rain that pelted down on my little tent all night.
It was therefore a wet and late start to the day’s cycling and, frankly, it didn’t get much better.
The biting cold in combination with persistent showers and downpours made the going tough and to be truthful not very enjoyable.
As a result I decided to call a halt to proceedings after 54 kilometres at Medina, a good choice as it turned out.
With no campground in town I tracked down a nice hostel for just 20 Euros with internet included, so I couldn’t be happier. Into the bargain it is another fascinating town to explore which I have been doing for the past couple of hours.
As it is only 6 degrees outside there are few people around, so I felt as though I had the town to myself to explore.
Unfortunately I have looked at the weather forecast for the next few days and it doesn’t look like improving quickly so it looks like I will have to get used to riding in the rain!
What is that saying about the rain on the plain in Spain ... it's certainly very applicable at the moment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

captions: Pic 1: A dramatic sunset at Castronuevo Pic 2: The road ahead. Pic 3 & 4: Medina. Pic 5: Have a look at how the old buildings were made.